So this is what they came for.

Well, the plan to find a comedy death hasn't come to fruition just yet. They came close last night, nearly driving into camels who were crossing the 'road' in the dark, after a very long hard day which saw the teams stuck at customs for six hours, then driving through a sandstorm for six hours, and then having a further six hours' driving to do in the dark before reaching their destination of Nouakchott, the capital of Mauritania and finally getting some rest. Lunch was nothing as extravagant as some earlier meals in the trip - no rooftop terrace restaurants to be found in minefields in the western Sahara, so they cooked army ration pack issue beef stew on an engine block. At least it meant that they didn't have to dig into the remaining supply of Euros - good thing too as it would have meant unstuffing the money from mum's bra.

Today has been another long day of driving as promises have been made to friends and family to get through Mauritania and out again as quickly as possible. A tough day in its own way, too, although not in the same sense as yesterday. They have left behind the more arabian part of Africa for the real, baked red earth of the cradle of human existence. It's like driving through an issue of National Geographic, the world is a different colour and they are surrounded by the kinds of cattle and children that people who live in Pembrokeshire would only ever normally see on documentaries. Everyone travelling has turned as orange as the scenery around them just from the sheer amount of sand that gets everywhere. The population is markedly different here than in previous legs of the journey, and the people are touching the hearts of our heroines. My mum told me tonight that all she wanted was to go back and revisit the people she has seen and had all too little time to spend with today. They are living in rag tents, they own nothing, but she describes a radiant beauty and smiles like nothing she has ever seen. She and Jane are giving out lollipops as they did in Morocco, but now it is to children who don't even know what sweets are. The hassles of previous stops and security checks throw the warm welcome they are receiving from local officials en route through southern Mauritania into sharp relief; the guards are so happy to see the rally drivers, they wave, salute, cheer and smile.

Tonight they are staying in Kiffa, the satellite phone is working well, they have tasty camel to eat and there is an enormous and spectacular sky to gaze upon, with a full moon. They had hoped to camp tonight but ran out of light before they reached an appropriate place to stop again.